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The Wine Islands of Lake Erie
by Constance F. Woolson Harper’s New Monthly Magazine
Volume 47, Number 277, June 1873 “And
glitters o’er the liquid miles The
jeweled ring of verdant isles, Where generous Nature holds her court Of
ripened bloom and sunny Smiles.” -
John Hay To
the imagination there is something attractive in
the very name of island. Robinson Crusoe on the mainland would lose the crown of
his glory; it is the island, the island, that fills the boyish heart with
wondering interest. For children of a larger growth Reade takes up the tale, and
his hero and heroine -- but ordinary mortals in London
-- are invested with a strange romance when thrown together upon an island;
young love reads, young love dreams, and young love wishes, " for thee and me, A lone sweet isle amid the sea." The representative Lady, type of the many isolated hearts who
give their love to some unattainable ideal, lived upon an island; the Master
whose exquisite words are like chords of music placed her, knowing
what he did, " where the lilies blow Round an Island there below, The island of Shalott." “Isles of the blest!” sighed
the ancients, as they looked out over the unknown ocean, seeing
in the hazy clouds, of the horizon the purple shores of everlasting rest. And
who among
us, when traveling sad and weary over the waters, has not fallen into silence at
the sight of far blue islands, mingling the Psalmist's wish, Erie is a dull lake, like persons
one meets in life, neither beautiful nor ugly, neither strong nor weak, neither
good nor bad. Its name signifies cat, given, say the first explorers, on account
of the number of wildcats upon its borders; and as if this was not evil enough,
the antiquated geography of Jedediah Morse, first published in 1789, describes
the western end of the lake and its islands as so infested with rattlesnakes as
to render it dangerous to land, acres of these creatures having been seen
basking on the lily leaves which stretched in every direction over the shallow
water. At the present day the cats and rattlesnakes --unless, indeed, we except
Reade's and Holmes's personifications of them -- are gone; but the dullness
remains, and we may sail from Buffalo to Cleveland, and from Cleveland to
Detroit, we may cross and follow the Canada shore and back again and in all the
600 miles see nothing worth seeing save man-made towns, so that we almost wish the eighteen thousand years
which the Boston savants have assigned for the lake's evaporation might dwindle
to eighteen, and thus let the Ohio corn fields spread their green ranks across
to the Dominion shore. For from end to end there is no beauty in it. A Scotchman once rallied at the want of beauty in his
betrothed. " Eh, lads," he answered, " dinna ye ken the dimple in
her elbow"' And in like manner homely Erie has a dimple in her elbow, the
group of islands in her southwest corner, as indistinct in the minds of most
salt-water Americans as the Atlantis of the ancients. These islands, ten or more
in number, varying in size from 2800 acres to a mere dot in the water, lie off
Sandusky Bay, stretching out into the lake to meet their five Canadian sisters
and the long Point of Pelee. The large steamers on their way up and down the
lakes pass north of these islands, and generally make the passage in the night,
and thus in order to see them one must go to Sandusky, and sail out over its bay
in one of the little steamers belonging to the island fleet -- for these
islanders are a maritime people and own a small flotilla of all kinds of craft,
from a steamer to a sloop for a one-man crew. Fishing boats, too, they have, in which they sail out to
their fish-pounds, and come racing home wing-and-wing, loaded down with live
fish crowded into their boat tanks. Then comes a lively scene, as the slippery
creatures are thrown up into boxes standing on the dock, and so deftly is this
managed that although tossed up with scarcely a glance, each squirming fish goes
safely into his box, and is there transported into the interior, to be eaten by
the farmers and their families; for here, as everywhere else, imported luxuries
are preferred; the fish of the islands go into the interior; and the
flesh of the interior goes out to the islands. The fish-pounds are numerous, and
at night, when as the law requires, they are all lighted up, the water looks as
though a fairy fleet was sailing over it, so low down and so bright twinkle the
little lights. Indeed to a
steady-going mainlander who does nothing by chance, the island fishery is but
witching work at best. He has, perhaps, spent St. Martin's summer among the
vineyards, eating the grapes and drinking the fresh juices from the presses,
which, as the old English verse says, “Saint Martin afterward Allowed to be wine--” a most fortunate miracle for the health of the incautious
drinker. But now he sees a cloud rising behind the purple mist; the Indian
summer is over, and thoughts of the home fireside send him on board of the
little steamer, which presently sails away, as he supposes, for Sandusky and the
railroad. Mistaken supposition! The
little boat circles round in the archipelago, now going one way and now another,
now slowing, now hastening on, now turning her head in-shore, and then suddenly
backing out without stopping, until the bewildered traveler wonders whether a
will-o’-wisp is at the bow. At length the charm is pointed
out; it proves to be nothing more or less than a white rag.
This sign is hung out on the end of a pole, means “fish,” and as the
catch is variable, and the stations numerous, the erratic course of the boat is
explained. It is within the memory of the generation now passing away
that the Lake Erie islands came into the jurisdiction of civilization by means
of a United States survey. Before that period their exact situation and size
were unknown, and their few inhabitants were wild lords of the isles, beyond the
reach of the law, who came occasionally to the mainland settlements to traffic
away their rafts of cedar logs, but who lived generally by hunting and fishing,
with just a suspicion of a taste for wrecking when the September gales threw a
harvest along their shores. But when the Kelley family regularly purchased the
island since called by their name, the largest of the American group, the day of
squatter sovereignty was over, and the hybrid population, with its mud floors
and no windows, slowly gave place to settlers of a better class -- slowly, since
even now some of the islets are uninhabited, several have only a solitary
family, and one, of course, has the traditional hermit who will not alIow a
woman's foot to touch the sacred soil of his retreat. The Indian names of the
islands are gone, and they now bear the hap-hazard titles given to them by the
sailors and settlers along shore: “Ballast,” “Gibraltar,” “Sugar,”
“Rattlesnake and the Rattles,” “Green,” “The Three Sisters,” and
“The Three Bass,” “Old Hen and Chickens,” “Mouse,” “Starve,” “PeIee,”
and “Kelley's,” the last
formerly known as “Cunningham's.” The group has its page in history, a
page which might well cause envy in the rich mainland cities cherishing a taste
for historical societies, and burning for heroes to honor. Upon this page men
well known in American annals appear, for the little archipelago has witnessed
skirmishes and battles, plots and victories, in the past and in the present, for
present still seems the war of the rebellion, although when we reckon them,
nearly a decade of years has passed since its close. First come the Indians. The story of the red men since the coming of Columbus is but a dreary series of wars and rumors of wars, broken truces, migrations, and never-ending trouble. Every plan has been tried, from gifts to rifle-balls, and every religious denomination has had an opportunity to try its moral suasion, while the impatient frontier soldiers and pioneers, who look upon Indians as so many wolves, have been held back by the strong arm of the law from the work of extermination. And what has been accomplished? Nothing. The few feeble successes gained at the expense of precious lives and heavy contributions of money cannot color the mass any more than one drop can color a fountain. The Indian question has become a weariness to the nation, and there is a universal skipping whenever the popular heading of “Lo” appears in the newspaper column. With the universal habit of mortals, however, we cherish an interest in what is beyond our reach. Let an Indian tribe vanish entirely from the earth without leaving a shadow behind, not even one chieftain to go as a deputation to Washington, not even one brave who refuses to live upon his reservation, and skulks around the settlements clad in the cast-off silk hats of the white man, and forthwith we begin to exalt the extinct race -- with the heart of an antiquarian and the pen of a novelist. It is only the degenerate, mind-fatiguing Indians of today whom we despise; no doubt the tribes of the past were of a nobler nature. Among these tribes of the past there are none more completely
past than the Eries, who have left scarcely more than a name behind them. They
belonged to that remarkable confederacy of tribes called the Neutral Nation,
dwelling upon the southern shore of Lake Erie, a city of refuge for warring
parties on either side. To them belonged the right of lighting the council-fire
of peace, a ceremony which was said to require a maiden hand, and for years they
held their place, respected and at peace. Upon these western islands were some
of their fastnesses; traces of their fortifications were discovered there by the
first surveyors, earth-works built, apparently to enclose a village, with gates
and sally-ports of wood, and in one place a quantity of new stone axes and
arrow-heads stored away in a rude armory for future use. Picture-writing was
also found, and one rock inscription upon Kelley's Island has been pronounced
“the most extensive well-sculptured and well-preserved inscription ever found
In America.” The Eries were at the head of the Neutral Nation, and at the time
of the first French explorers they were in the height of their power. So much is
known, but no more. The Iroquois called and swept them from the face of the
earth. “Of course," says the student of lake-country history, wearily.
“The Iroquois are as sure to come sweeping in at the last as Sir William
Johnson!” The Eries were so utterly destroyed that the most patient
investigator can only say, “They were, and they are not.” “Little besides
their existence is known of them," says Parkman, whose histories are as
reliable as they are fascinating -- an unusual combination. It is an evil, no
doubt, to be unreliable, but oh, is it not equally evil to be a Dry-as-dust” A century and a half passed, during
which the history of the lake islands is involved in obscurity, and then upon
the scene steps Tecumseh, who belongs to Ohio and Lake Erie, as Pontiac belongs
to the lovely Detroit River, The chieftain is near his end when we see him; he
is making his last speech on the shore of the lake near the islands where he has
watched the smoke of the battle at Put-in-Bay, and although he suspects the
defeat of his allies, he scorns to retreat, and covers the British general with
Indian satire. Standing upon the beach, and waving his hand toward the islands,
in the name of all the tribes he speaks: “Father, listen! Our fleet has gone
out; we know they have fought, we have heard the great guns, but we know not
what has happened to our father with one arm" (alluding to Commodore
Barclay, Perry's antagonist, who had lost an arm at Trafalgar). “Our ships
have gone one way, and we are much astonished to see our father tying up everything
and preparing to run the other! You always told us you would never draw your
foot off British ground, but now we see you drawing back without even a sight of
the enemy, and we must compare our father's conduct to a fat dog who, when he is
frightened, drops his tail and runs away! Father, listen! the Americans have not
yet defeated us by land, and whether or not they have defeated us by water, we
still wish to remain here and fight when they appear. You have the arms and
ammunition which our great English father sent to his red children; give them to
us, and you may go, and welcome. But as for us, we are determined to stay, and,
if the Great Spirit wills it so, we will leave our bones upon the land of our
forefathers.” For scathing rebuke and inflexible courage this red man's speech
is admirable; and it was emphasized by his death in the first battle that ensued
-- a battle which he knew was hopeless before it began, but which his single
determination absolutely held in the balance until death struck him down. As the
historian says, “When his well-known voice was heard no more, the battle
ceased.” The shade of the Indian has passed,
and now enters the young commodore, who, upon the wild shores of Lake Erie,
built a fleet from the trees of the forest, and almost nothing besides -- a feat
which in the mind of a modern ship -- builder surpasses even the subsequent
victory. With these vessels the young officer sailed up the lake to the islands,
and there, off Put-in-Bay, he fought the battle of Lake Erie, September 10,1813,
the British fleet surrendering before sunset, and thereby giving up the whole
lake to American control. The story of this battle has been told again and
again, in prose and in verse, in marble and oil. There is something in the motto
which Perry hoisted just before the engagement which touches the popular fancy.
“Don't give up the ship!” has become one of the people's sayings, and the
dispatch announcing the victory, “We have met the enemy, and they are ours,”
has been adopted into the military language of the day; only Grant's “We will
fight it out on this line, if it takes all summer,” can compare with it. A
deep principle often underlies a popular saying, as a deep feeling often
underlies a popular song. Armies have ridden to victory on the chorus of a song,
parties have carried a candidate into the White House on the wave of a saying.
The class to which belongs George Eliot's Mr. Casaubon may, indeed, scorn any
thing popular, but what are we all but people, and what is the world but the
people's home! After the battle the slain officers were buried on the shore
of one of the islands: a willow-tree marks the spot. A remarkable incident,
showing the power of sound, belongs to the story of the battle. A Cleveland
pioneer was engaged that day in building the first log courthouse on the public
square, when suddenly he was startled by a sound which he supposed was thunder.
There was not a cloud in the sky, however, and the wondering inhabitants
gathered on the bank of the lake, thirty or forty in all, and looked toward the
west, whence the strange sounds came. At length they recognized the report of
cannon, and knowing that Perry's fleet had gone up toward the islands, they
began to realize that a battle was taking place, and after a time actually
distinguished the American guns from the British, as the former were of heavier
calibre. When, late in the afternoon, three loud reports were heard, evidently
American, the listening band gave three hearty cheers, as sure of the unseen
victory as though they had witnessed it from the shore of Put-in-Bay. The
distance was seventy miles. The next figures on the page of
island “history” are the “patriots” of the Canadian movement for liberty in 1838. Sandusky was one of their
points of rendezvous, and the islands were tempting strongholds; near Pelee
Island they fought a battle with a force of British cavalry upon the ice, a
novel battle-ground. And now we come down to our own day, and face a figure not
ten years dead--Beall, the pirate of Lake Erie. This young Virginian, an officer
of the Confederate army, was hung as pirate and spy on Governor's Island, New
York Harbor, February 24,1865. The sentence was just, and its execution a
necessary part of the discipline of war. Yet now that years have elapsed, and we can review the past
without that terrible personal interest that made our hearts burn within us,
there is something worthy of note in the story of this man, who, young, wealthy,
and educated, threw himself, as it were, into the jaws of death from sincere
though mistaken love for his native country. John Yates Beall was a native of Jefferson County, Virginia.
He graduated at the University of Virginia, Charlottesville, and at the breaking
out of the rebellion owned a large plantation in his native county; his property
was estimated at $1,500,000, and in addition he was said to be the heir of an
estate in England. In the earliest days of the war Beall organized Company G,
Second Virginia infantry, and his regiment afterward formed part of the original
“Stonewall Brigade,” under Stonewall Jackson. He took part in many battles,
but it is his piratical expedition among the islands of Lake Erie which brings
him within the range of our subject -- an expedition which ended in disaster and
death. It is well remembered along the lake shore; Buffalo, Detroit,
and Cleveland were filled with excitement; the citizens patrolled the streets by
night, and visions of piratical craft sailing boldly in and firing upon the
defenseless houses filled all eyes. Exhausted Ohio had sent into the field
regiment after regiment beyond her quota, but her northern frontier was entireIy
exposed, and it seemed an easy thing to sail across from Canada and batter down
her towns. Looking back upon it now, it still seems easy; and yet it was never
done, although Canada swarmed with conspirators, under the leadership of Jacob
Thompson, secret agent of the Confederate government. The United States had but
one *at vessel on the lakes, the Michigan, a paddle-wheel steamer,
carrying eighteen guns. The capture of this boat would enable a small body of
men to carry destruction from one end of the lake to the other. In September 1864, the Michigan was
lying off Johnson's Island,
Sandusky Bay, which had been used since 1862 as a depot for prisoners of war;
here were confined 2480 men, all, with the exception of about one hundred
officers of the Confederacy, enough to command an a army of 80,000 men. The
little island was h naturally uppermost in the thoughts of the rebel officers in
Canada. It was near at hand, a steamer could run across in the night, and
in the winter a land force could attack it, for the ice was strong, and nowhere
was there more than five miles between island and island, stretching like
stepping-stones across the lake from Point Pelee to the Ohio mainland. No other
prison was on an exposed frontier like this, and were it not for the guns of the
Michigan a rescue might be effected: the Michigan, therefore, must
be captured. On the morning of the 19th of September the steamer Philo
Parsons, plying between Detroit,
the islands, and Sandusky, left Detroit at the usual hour on her way down the
river; at Sandwich on the Canadian side, four men came on board bringing with them a large old-fashioned trunk tied with
ropes. As at this period there was a constant stream of fugitives crossing the
border, fleeing from the draft, or coming back with empty pockets, this MaIden
party excited no comment, and the steamer went on her way through Lake Erie,
stopping at the different islands, and taking on a number of passengers for
Sandusky. After leaving
Kelley's Island, the last of the group, suddenly four men came toward the clerk,
who, owing to the absence of the captain, had command of the boat, and leveled
revolvers at his head; at the same moment the old black trunk was opened, and
the whole party armed themselves with navy revolvers, bowie-knives, and
hatchets, and took possession of the defenseless boat. The course was then
changed, and after cruising about at random for some time the pirates turned
back to one of the islands -- Middle Bass -- and stopped at the dock. While here the Island Queen, a steamer plying between
Sandusky and the islands, came alongside, and, suspecting nothing, threw out a
plank in order to land some freight. Instantly the pirates swarmed up her sides,
calling upon the captain to surrender; shots were fired -- apparently more for
the purpose of intimidation than for any real injury -- knives and hatchets were
held over the passengers, among whom were thirty or forty one-hundred-days' men
on their way to Toledo to be mustered out. The pirates were few in number, but
they were well armed, and held both steamers at their mercy. The captain of the Island
Queen made sturdy resistance, endeavoring in vain to cut the ropes that bound his boat to the Parsons; and the engineer,
refusing to obey the orders of the pirates, was shot in the cheek. Resistance
was evidently useless; the passengers were put into the hold, with a guard over
them, and the captain was asked if many strangers had come to Sandusky that
morning, and if there was any excitement there. After some delay and discussion among themselves the pirates
decided to exact an oath of secrecy for twenty-four hours from the women and
citizen passengers, and allow them to go on shore, together with the
hundred-days' men whom they paroled, and then the two steamers, lashed together,
started out toward Sandusky, the captain of the Island Queen being
retained, with the hope that he could be forced to act as pilot. When four or
five miles out, the Island Queen was scuttled and abandoned, and the Parsons
went on alone. A debate sprung up among the pirates as to whether or not
they should run into Sandusky Bay; evidently something had failed them, someone
had disappointed them. At length
the captain was again put into the hold, the boat’s speed was slackened, and
she was kept cruising up and down outside as if waiting for a signal.
Chief in command of these raiders was John Yates Beall: his
appearance and manner rendered him conspicuous among the others, who are
described, in the language of one who saw them, as a “mean, low-lived set;
Burley, the second in command, being a perfect desperado.” In the report of
Jacob Thompson, secret agent of the Confederacy in Canada, a document belonging
to the rebel archives, the whole plot is related. There were two parts, the
first being the expedition by water under Beall, and the second a conspiracy on
shore, by means of which the officers of the Michigan were to be thrown
off their guard, so that upon a given signal Beall could steam rapidly in,
surprise them, and capture the boat. A cannon-shot sent over Johnson's Island
was to tell the prisoners that the hour of rescue had come; Sandusky was next to
be attacked, and after horses had been secured the prisoners were to mount and
make for: Cleveland, the boats co-operating, and from Cleveland strike across
Ohio for Wheeling and the Virginia border. The key to the whole movement was the
capture of the Michigan. The plot on shore was headed by a Confederate officer named
Cole. As has been related, Beall performed his part with entire success; and had
the other head possessed equal capacity, no doubt the plan would have been
successful, and the whole North taken by surprise at this daring raid and rescue
upon a hitherto peaceful and unnoticed border. The two thousand young officers
riding for their lives through the heart of Ohio, where there was no organized
force to oppose them, would have seemed like a phantom band to the astonished
inhabitants. Even the famous raid of John Morgan, well remembered in the great
red-brick farm-houses of the central counties, would have been eclipsed by this
flying troupe, the flower of the Southern army. On the lake Beall would have
held the whole coast at his mercy, and the familiar old Michigan, turned
into a piratical craft, would have carried terror into every harbor. But the plot on shore failed. Cole spent his money freely in Sandusky, and managed to
procure an introduction to the officers of the Michigan, inviting them to
supper-parties, and playing the part of a genial host whose wines are good and
generously offered. The tedium of
the daily life upon the steamer and in the small town was enlivened by his
hospitality, and for some time all went well; but gradually he began to mar his
own plot by so much incautiousness and such a want of dexterity in his movements
that a suspicion was aroused in Sandusky, and his maneuvers
were watched. On the evening of the 19th of September Cole had invited the
officers of the Michigan to a supper-party. Everything was prepared for
them, the wine was drugged, and when by this means they had been rendered
helpless, a signal was to notify Beall that all was ready for his attack.
But in the mean
time suspicion had grown into certainty, and at the very moment of success Cole
was arrested by order of the commander of the Michigan, the signal was
never given, and Beall on board of the Parsons, strained his eyes in vain
toward Sandusky and Johnson’s Island, cruising up and down outside the bay,
now talking with his prisoner, the captain, and now urging his men to dare all
and make the attack alone. But the men, a disorderly rabble gathered together in
Canada, refused to enter the bay; and at last, disappointed and disheartened,
Beall gave the signal to turn the boat, and abandoned the attempt. Back went the Parson’s, with her pirate crew, past
Kelley's Island, where the alarmed inhabitants were burying their valuables, and
looking for the flames of burning Sandusky; past Middle Bass, where the
unfortunate passengers, watching on the shore shortly after midnight, saw
her fly by, the fire pouring out of her smoke-stacks, and “making for the
Detroit River like a scared pickerel.” The captain and those of the crew who
had been retained to manage the boat were put ashore upon an uninhabited island,
and after reaching the Canadian shore and scuttling the steamer, the pirates
disbanded, and Beall, the master-spirit, was left to brood over a failure which
had the additional bitterness of possible success. In the morning the lake-country people woke up to hear the
news. Incendiaries and conspirators in their midst, raiders by land and pirates
by sea -- these were the tidings of the breakfast table. Batteries, soldiers,
and generals were hurried hither and thither, stern investigations were ordered,
guards doubled, and above it all rose the sound of popular comment in newspapers
and on street corners, until the buzz spread through the nation. To be sure, the
horse was not stolen, if we can the Michigan a horse, but there was an
immense amount of shutting the stable door. And when the old steed appeared
again in the various harbors of the lake, she was regarded with curiosity and
redoubled affection as one who had indeed snuffed the battle, through from afar. In less than four months, Beall was captured near
Suspension-Bridge, and taken to New York. An
attempt to bribe the turnkey with three thousand dollars in gold having been
discovered, the authorities sent him to Fort Lafayette, and while there he made
an appeal to the bar of New York to undertake his defense.
For a time no one responded, but at length Mr. James T. Brady offer his
services, and the trial began before a military court.
Beall was charged with the seizure of the steamer Philo Parsons at
Kelley’s Island, Lake Erie; with the seizure of the steamer Island Queen at
Middle Bass Island, Lake Erie; with being a rebel spy in Ohio and New York, and
with an attempt to throw the express car off the track between Buffalo and
Dunkirk, for the purpose of robbing the express company's safe. The officers of
the captured steamers came from the West to identify him, and it is said that
Beall frankly confirmed their testimony, remarking that as regarding the lake
affair, the trial had been fair and impartial. In the defense a manifesto from
Jefferson Davis was offered, asserting that these acts upon the border were
committed by his authority, and should be recognized as the acts of lawful
belligerents. But the court pronounced the verdict of “Guilty,” and
General Dix approved the finding, ordering the prisoner to be hung on Governor's
Island, Saturday, the 18th of February. In reviewing the testimony, General Dix
said: "The accused is shown to be a man of education and refinement, and it
is difficult to account for his agency in transactions so abhorrent to the moral
sense and so inconsistent with all the rules of honorable warfare.” In this
opinion all just-minded persons will agree. And yet, as an example of judgment,
mistaken but equally sincere, an example of perverted mental vision, take the
farewell letter of Beall to his brother, written on the eve of the day appointed
for his execution: "….Remember me kindly to my
friends. Say to them that I am not aware of committing any Crime against
society. I die for my country. No thirst for blood or lucre animated me in
my course…My hands are clean of blood, unless spilled in conflict, and not a
cent enriched my pocket….Vengeance is mine, saith the Lord, and I will repay.
Therefore do not show unkindness to the prisoners; they are helpless.”
“John Yates Beall” A short respite was afterward granted by President Lincoln to
enable the mother to see her son; but on the afternoon of the 24th of February
the execution took place, upon Governor's Island, New York Harbor, the prisoner
responding to the prayers of the Episcopal service for the dying, but otherwise
remaining apparently unmoved, One item in the newspaper accounts of the day is
worthy of note. During the whole of the long proceedings before the execution,
the young man kept his eyes steadfastly fixed upon the southern horizon, as if
looking toward the very heart of the country for which he was giving up his
life. Beall was finely formed, about five feet eight inches in
height, with hazel eyes, brown hair and beard, and a firmly compressed mouth. He
was thirty-two years old at the time of his death. The islands are now free from alarm, the prison barracks on
Johnson's, in the bay, are gone, and nothing warlike remains save a few
earth-works and traditions of the past, which mingle the stories of 1813 with
those of 1864. Grapes are everywhere: the long ranks of the vines stretch from
shore to shore, and even the talk is fruity. Grapes are fastidious in their
choice of a home; here they will and there they will not grow.
One side of a field they accept, and the other side they reject, and in
many localities they refuse to show even a leaf on the trellis. If the soil is
unfavorable for the vine, no art can render it favorable. But here on this
southern shore of Lake Erie, and upon its islands, the grape flourishes in
unrivaled luxuriance, and even the banks of the Ohio, the first stronghold of
the Catawba, have been forced to yield a precedence in many points to the
northern rival. Many crops are useful, but few are in themselves beautiful;
digging potatoes, for example, can never figure upon the poet's page. But
everything connected with a vineyard is full of beauty, whether it be the green
leaves and twining tendrils of the spring, the bunches slowly turning in the hot
midsummer sun, the first picking, in early fall, when the long aisles, filled
with young girls making merry over their work or the last ingathering of
the Indian summer, when the late-ripening bunches hanging on the bare trellises
shine through the vineyards in red-purple gleams as far as the eye can reach.
Nothing can be more lovely than the islands in this golden season; Dionysius
himself would have loved them. The water is blue and tranquil, for even in a gale the fury
does not enter here among the land-locked harbors; on all sides stand the
islets, some large, some small, some vine-covered and inhabited, others rocky
and wild; the trees glow with color, and sweeping down to the water's edge, send
a brilliant reflection far out from shore; and over all is spread the dreamy
haze of Indian summer, more beautiful when resting on the water, and deepening
here and there upon an island, than it ever can be on the level mainland. A few
sail are seen, generally the fishing boats, but sometimes comes a Lake Erie
yacht from the shore cities, bound to or from the duck marshes far up Sandusky
Bay. Gibraltar Island, a mere dot in the
water, is crowned by a villa whose tower forms a picturesque point in the
landscape. This islet is a country-seat belonging to Mr. Jay Cooke, the banker,
and upon its rocky summit is a memorial of Commodore Perry, overlooking the
scene of the battle of Lake Erie. Upon Kelley's Island also there are some
handsome residences, and no doubt they will be built all through the archipelago
wherever a point or a headland can be spared from the grapes.
“Oh,” said our oarsman, as we floated near the Needle's Eye of
Gibraltar, “my brother-in-law could have bought
the whole island for seventy-five dollars!” “Why did he not do it, then?”
"Oh, he never thought as how
the old rock would be worth so much; that was be- fore folks took to coming
here, and there wasn't many grapes either." Thousands of dollars are now asked
for the smallest island. Kelley's, the largest of the group,
possesses, in addition to its vineyards, valuable limestone quarries, from which
the furnaces from Erie, Pennsylvania, to Marquette, Lake Superior, draw their
supplies of lime and flux stone. It has 836 inhabitants, five schools, and four
churches. Put-in-Bay Island has 600 inhabitants, and two large hotels,
which are filled in the summer with Southerners fleeing from Missouri and Kentucky
heat; they find Lake Erie air quite cool, while the Lake Erie people panting and
oppressed, fly by on steamers, and stop not until they reach Mackinac or Lake
Superior. Meanwhile the Lake Superior people make excursions to the north shore;
and no doubt when the north shore is settled, the inhabitants win spend their
summers at the arctic circle. The scenery of the islands is never grand, but
always lovely. The tired brain is not excited to the work of admiration or
wonder, but it can find restful pleasure floating on the quiet water in the
shade of the cliffs, or dreaming away the days in the beautiful vineyards. We
all have our moods when we ask, like the lotus-eaters, “Why are we weighed upon with heaviness, And utterly
consumed with sharp distress, While all things else have rest from weariness?” At such times the islands are like the “land in which it seemed always afternoon,” and coming here, the weary can fall “asleep in a half dream,” and take sweet rest after their labors in the busy mainland towns. America has so long imported its wines that it hardly yet
realizes the presence of a native production. The wine of the islands is of
several kinds, the best known being the dry Catawba. The expression “juice of
the grape,” however, misleads the ignorant, who fancy that grapes and a press
are all that is necessary. This idea is like that of the young lady who, upon
being asked how she would prepare a dish of baked beans, replied, “Why, put
them in the dish and bake them, of course.” Everything has its chemistry, even
beans; and wine-making is chemical science, whereof the very terms are
mysterious to the uninitiated. But the grapes
in heaped barrels and baskets are a sight worth seeing, and the presses, with
the juice flowing out in a fragrant stream, bring the Old Testament to our
minds, the days when the new wine was preferred to the old. Down in the cellars of the wine houses, under the presses,
stand rows of giant casks, and the superintendent fills a glass from each to
show the wine in all its stages. It
is good – very good; and as it is native, it is cheap – cheap when compared
with even the poorest imported mixture. It has often been asserted that the inhabitants of a
vine-growing district are never intemperate.
The purity of the wine prevents the excitement produced by
vile compounds, and its very plentifulness teaches its proper use. There is no
need to slip away into obscure places to get it; there is no need for deception
or excuse. Everybody has it; everybody drinks it, and the fascination of rarity
is gone.
If this is true, the native wines should be brought into common use as an
antidote against the deadly liquors which so soon blunt the heart and destroy
the mind of man. Throughout the West already have they won their way, and
gradually are they penetrating deep into the Eastern markets.
Not rapidly, however, for it was only last summer when, after ordering a
bottle of dry Catawba, which by some chance had
got its name upon the wine list of a fashionable watering-place hotel, the head
waiter brought us “sparkling Moselle,” with the assurance that it was
“just the same wine-exactly the same.” The statistics of the grapes and wine
for one year will give an idea of the extent of the production: Number of acres in bearing In Ottawa County
and
the islands: 2,082 Total product, in pounds: 7,462,750 Grapes sold, In pounds: 118,000 Number of gallons of wine made: 312,134 The grapes bring from five to eight cents per pound, and the common
quality of wine at wholesale brings sixty cents per gallon. There are good years and bad years, the vintage varying in
quality and quantity. Already the
wine of such-and-such a year is offered to the guest with an air which would be
foreign if it was not so entirely native; old-fashioned connoisseurs know all
about the vintage of such and such a year, but in their day the vintages
spoken of were all foreign. They
are not all foreign now. The native Bacchus is young and modest, but his
followers will gather around him before long.
Already the native poet, America’s greatest has not been ashamed to
chant his praises in the following verses: CATAWBA WINE This song of mine Is a song of the vine, To be sung by the glowing embers Of way-side inns When the rain begins To darken the drear Novembers. It is not a song Of the Suppernong From warm Carolinian valleys, Nor the Isabel, And the
Muscadel, That bask in our garden alleys. Richest and best Is the wine of the West That grows by the beautiful river Whose sweet perfume Fills all the room With a benison on the giver. Very good in its way Is the
Verzenay, Or the Sillery soft and creamy, But Catawba wine Has a taste more divine, More dulcet, delicious, and dreamy. Pure as a spring Is the wine I sing, And to praise it one needs but name it, For Catawba wine Has need of no sign, No tavern-bush to proclaim it. H. W. LONGFELLOW. All Contents Copyright © 2000, 2001 by Middle Bass on the Web, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction without written permission is forbidden for any purposes other than personal use. Revised: 21 Jul 2008 07:50:19. This page has been accessed times |